COMMON HOUSEPLANTS AND HOW TO CARE FOR THEM

Let me begin by saying that I am NOT a plant expert - I am a plant “enthusiast”. My personal journey as a plant parent has excelled over the years and I have learned A LOT along the way. Even after all the tips and tricks i’ve picked up over the years, I’ve learned that being a good plant parent comes down to two main things - a home that provides indirect sunlight and consistent watering.

Listen, I didn’t always have a green thumb. There was a time where I couldn’t keep a plant alive if it was my full-time job. What I learned through this experience is that most of my plant woes were due to the following problems :

A) Over Loving - meaning I was over watering each plant and drowning the roots a.k.a “Root Rot” - CLASSIC, I know.

B) Forgetful - ok - WHAT!? There was a time I forgot to water my plants alright! (I WAS A SELFISH YOUNG ADULT), which resulted in the roots drying up completely.

C) Not enough sunlight - I lived in a lot of basement apartments and turns out, plants don’t like dark dungeons💁‍♀️ Plants need a lot of indirect sunlight, not dark pits of despair…ok dramatic much? but it certainly felt that way when living in them!

D) Proper Drainage - Seems natural to just buy a plant, stick it into a pot and keep it alive. However, there is so much more to it than that! If you are planting something in a pot that has no drainage hole, you want to pick up some rocks or pebbles and place them on the bottom of the pot first, then plant your green friend on top. This way, when you water your plant, the water has a place to drain out. If your planter has a drainage hole on the bottom, water the plant until it starts to drip through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain completely before you return it to the saucer. Never let your plant sit in water in the saucer! BIG NO NO! I think a good general rule for plants is that you want to allow the soil to dry between watering. You’ll know if it’s dry if you stick your finger into the soil and your finger isn’t wet when you pull it out.

Plant parenting really was a love-hate relationship for a long time.

In this post, I'm going to walk you through some of the plants I have throughout my personal home and best practices I’ve learned with each. Being a plant parent is a very rewarding feeling and I love the way a plant can transform the entire vibe of a space. If you aren’t a plant parent yet - be patient, I promise one day the right plant will click with you and it will feel SOOOO GOOOOOD!

I hope this post inspires you to pick a plant for your home and become a plant parent too!

POTHOS aka“DEVIL’S IVY”

The Pothos is native to Mo'orea in the Society Islands of French Polynesia - Ya’ll know the Society Islands like BORA BORA and tahiti! 🏝 I am a such a fan of the Pothos type - it’s my favourite house plant and is probably one of the easiest plants to keep alive! It’s beautiful vine-like look makes it the perfect plant for instagram worthy photos and tall bookshelves or hangers in your home.

LIGHT: Pothos enjoy a wide range of environments. They will do well in bright indirect light and low light spaces.

POTTING: Pothos can be grown in dry soil or in vases of water. This is convenient for placing a pothos plant in hard to reach areas in a jug of water where it can remain untouched as long as water remains in the jug.

I have been told though that if you start a pothos in one medium such as water, it’s hard to switch it over to be a soil based plant. And vice versa. So something to consider.

WATERING: For me, I water my pothos once a week. I don’t drown them but usually about half a cup of water in each depending on their size is fine. If you aren’t sure, stick your finger in the soil about 1.5 inches down and if you’re finger is wet, you should be fine to leave it for another week.

COOL FACT: Something I recently learned was that more variegated pothos ( meaning pothos that have colour on their leaves) prefer more well-lit areas vs ones with leaves that are all green. If they are put in low light spaces, they lose their variegation. Only the green parts of the leaves can make energy for the plant, so it must be able to get enough light for energy or it’s growth will slow or the leaves will compensate for the lack of light by becoming more green. Cool right?

CONS: Pothos plants are poisonous. If accidentally ingested, the plant can cause irritation and vomiting because it contains calcium oxalates. Even the sap from the plant may cause highly sensitive people to break out in a rash. It is considered toxic to cats, dogs and children, but as mentioned, it normally will make them very sick but will not kill them.

Monstera deliciosa AKA “Swiss Cheese plant”

The Monstera is a species native to tropical forests in Central America. There are two different species of Monstera that are commonly displayed as houseplants - Monstera deliciosa and Monstera adansonii. Monstera deliciosa are much larger and their leaves contain holes in them that eventually grow towards the edge and open up as they mature.

LIGHT: Find a balance between sun and shade. If Monstera is given too much sun, the leaves will yellow. If it’s left in the dark, the plant will exhibit something called negative phototropism, where new leaves grow towards the dark, rather than the light. (It’s a pretty clever trick: In the jungle, darkness signals the presence of a larger tree that Monstera can climb up to reach sunlight.) Since this isn’t possible in a living room, indirect sun is best.

POTTING: Monstera needs lots of space: Put it in a statement-making spot in the living room, rather than in a tight corner or on a windowsill. In the tropical forests, Monstera plants can grow up trees and other plants, so they benefit from some support indoors, too. Consider adding a small trellis or moss totem nearby. They latch on really quick and keep your plant from looking a little lop-sided. To stop excessive growth, avoid re-potting too often and prune regularly by pinching off new growth.

WATERING: Water Monstera moderately and evenly, about once a week. Wait until the soil is fairly dry before watering again. Keep in a fairly humid environment. Water more frequently during warmer months and fertilize during growth.

COOL FACT: Scientists have speculated about the reason for the holes in Monstera leaves: One theory is that this perforation maximizes the leaf’s surface area, and therefore its ability to capturing sunlight on the rainforest floor; the other is that it allows tropical downpours to pass through the leaves, thereby limiting damage to the plant. This explains Monstera’s other name: Hurricane Plant!

CONS: Irritating to cats, dogs, and humans only if foliage is consumed. Fruit is edible to humans. Best practice is always to keep houseplants out of reach of small children and pets.

COMMONS MISTAKES:

Wilting when soil is dry is caused when you under watered OR leave your monstera pot-bound. Trim leaves or re-pot if watering doesn’t fix the wilting.

Yellowing Leaves and/or black stems while soil is wet is caused by overwatering.

Leaves curling, but still green? This is caused by rootbound or being underwatered. It can mean overwatered if accompanied by yellow leaves.

MONSTERA ADANSONII AKA “SWISS CHEESE VINE PLANT”

The Monstera adansonii is a smaller relative of the insta-famous Monstera deliciosa .With the right care, the cheese vine plant makes a great evergreen indoor houseplant. Because it doesn’t grow as fast and as big as the Monstera deliciosa, it is perfect for smaller spaces. Smaller size, but still a big impact. It can climb or trail, therefore your Monstera adansonii is perfect to keep as an indoor hanging plant or on a shelf where it can cascade down.

LIGHT: The Monstera adansonii comes from the jungles of Central and South America. In the wild, they grow on tree trunks under coverage of the foliage above. This means it is not used to being in the full-blown sun all day. Therefore, you want to grow it in indirect sunlight. Put your plant near a window, but just out of the direct sun.

POTTING: Choose a potting mix that allows a good amount of drainage but retains moisture. A good mix could contain ingredients such as horticultural charcoal, orchid bark and perlite.

Rooting in Water - Cut a piece of vine, making sure the cutting has at least one or two nodes (part of the stem where the leaves form).Take your cuttings and place them in a small vase filled with water. Put it is a spot where it gets indirect light, and regularly refresh the water. Next, wait patiently. Roots will form within one to three weeks. When your cuttings have grown strong roots it is time to pot them in the soil.

WATERING: Look at your plant. Are the leaves droopy? Before you do anything, stick your finger into the soil to see how wet or dry it is. If the top inch of the soil feels just dry, water it. This jungle plant likes its soil to be a bit moist. That being said, do make sure not to give your plant too much water. Don’t overwater. You’re watering too often if the top layer of soil does not get enough time to dry out and stays wet for several days at a time. Otherwise, you should mist your plant frequently. Or set it on a humidity tray. You could also get a humidifier and place it near the plant to keep the humidity up.

CONS: Toxic to Pets - Unfortunately, the Monstera adansonii is moderately toxic to cats and dogs. It can cause oral irritation, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.

StagHorn Fern aka “elkhorn ferns”

Staghorn Ferns are my absolute favorite type of houseplant! They aren’t the easiest plant to care for, as they can be a bit picky, but once you get your rhythm down, these plants can become a cool display piece in your home. Staghorns are epiphytes, meaning they take their nutrients from the air, rain or water (marine environments) or from debris around it, so their root systems are fairly minimal. They will attach to tree trunks or surfaces in a forest that will help them thrive. Most mature household staghorns will need to be mounted on a board for optimal living conditions. Staghorn Fern leaves are called fronds, and staghorn ferns have two types. The first is the “antler” frond - these are the big leaves that resemble the antlers of deer or moose. The second type of staghorn fern frond is called the shield frond. These are the round, hard wrapped brown leaves that surround the base of the plant. Their function is to protect the plant roots, and take up water and nutrients. The shield will start out green, but eventually turn brown and dry up. The final part of the staghorn fern is the root ball.

LIGHT: Staghorn ferns need bright, indirect or diffused light to thrive, though they must be protected from the harsh rays of the direct sun. You should put a staghorn in the brightest space in your home where they won't take direct sun.

POTTING: You can find young staghorn ferns sold in pots, mature ones need to be mounted to a board or hung in a hanging basket. As I mentioned, their natural growing environments are on the surface of other plants such as trees so they need a small sack with minimal soil that stays consistently moist.

WATERING: Use a spray-bottle that provides a fine mist - I Mist the entire plant, focusing on the underside of the antler fronds and the shield fronds.

Second to that, every other week I soaking my staghorn fern.

Soak your staghorn fern in a sink or container of water for 10-20 minutes, or until the roots are fully saturated. Alternately, hold the fern so the roots are fully submerged until fully saturated(1-2 minutes).
Alternately, place the plaque in a sink or bathtub tap, and allow room-temperature water to run through the root ball until it is saturated.
Allow your plant to drip dry before re-hanging.

If the antler fronds begin to brown or blacken at the base, this is a sign of overwatering. Reduce watering to once monthly until plant shows sign of recovery

If the antler fronds begin to brown at the tips or wilt, this is a sign of under-watering. Increase watering as needed.

CONS: Can’t survive in artificial light.. Second to that, Staghorn ferns need extensive drainage and are particularly susceptible to root rot.

PHILODENDRON

Breath it in folks, because Philodendrons are valued for their ability to clean the air in your home! This plant species is one of the easiest plants to care for if you watch for the signals. This plant will tell you exactly what it needs if you know what to watch for! (WHAT A DREAM!) Even inexperienced houseplant owners will have no trouble growing philodendron plants because the plants adapt to any condition inside the home - including darker low-light rooms.

Sunlight – Set the plant in a location with bright, indirect sunlight. Find a place near a window where the sun never actually touches the foliage. It’s totally normal is older leaves turn yellow and fall off, however, if this happens to several leaves at the same time, the plant may be getting too much light and will need to be moved immediately. Opposite to that, if the stems are long and leggy with several inches between leaves, the plant probably isn’t getting enough light.

Water – General rule is to allow the top inch (2.5 cm.) of soil to dry out between waterings ie: the length of your index finger to the first knuckle, so try inserting your finger into the soil as a good way to check the moisture level. Droopy leaves mean that the plant is getting too much water or not enough however, the leaves will recover quickly when you correct the watering schedule. *phew! Avoid overwatering or root rot may develop.

Types of Philodendron - The two main types of philodendron houseplants are vining and non-climbing. Vining philodendrons need a post or other supporting structure to climb on. These include blushing philodendrons and heartleaf philodendrons. Non-climbing philodendrons, such as lacy tree philodendrons and bird’s nest philodendrons, have an upright, spreading growth habit. COOLEST LOOKING PLANTS EVER.

Con: When a plant is known for their ability to clean the air in your home, the con to this is that they are high in calcium oxalate, which can be toxic to both humans and pets when eaten.

PILEA Plant

Pilea peperomioides has many different names around the world such as the Chinese money plant, pancake plant, UFO plant, lefse plant, missionary plant or the friendship plant. This is a species that has become more popular in the last few years thanks to social media- instagram made you famous boo.

SUNLIGHT: Pilea is a low maintenance plant that thrives best in a bright, indirect sunny spots in your home. Even though this plant is part of the succulent family, do not place your Pilea in direct sunlight since it will scorch the leaves. In order to prevent your Pilea from growing lopsided, rotate it at least 2-3 times a week - as it will grow towards the sun. This plant can adapt to lower light areas, but the leaves will turn a darker green and the plant will spread out more.

WATER: Pilea do not like wet, soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry between watering and watch the leaves—when they start looking a tad droopy, it’s time to water your plant. In warmer weather, they need to be watered more frequently. For best results, use a general liquid houseplant fertilizer watered down (ie: half the recommended strength) twice during the spring and summer.

How do I propagate my Pilea?

There are two ways to do this: In soil or in water. The soil method is easy and eliminates one step, but it’s entirely up to you! Once you have had your plant for awhile, you will most likely see it produce little off shoots in the soil. Remove one of these shoots and be sure to take some of its roots along with it. Pot the shoot in a small 2” terra cotta pot and water it as usual.
To root in water, simply take a leaf cutting and let the stem sit in water until a good amount of roots appear. You can also take a shoot and let its roots sit in water and grow. Transfer to a small pot and provide care as usual.

CON: Pilea are generally non-toxic for humans and pets. However, when ingested in very large quantities, they can cause a mild digestive reaction

Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle-leaf fig trees - more like: FICKLE-LEAF FIG TREES. Let’s see here…They don’t like drafts, soil that is too wet, soil that is too dry, too much sun, not enough sun, dry air, moist air, drafts—The list goes on - catch my drift? However, if you get your fiddle leaf in a place where it’s happy, this species can become one of the most cherished plants in your home. They bring a sense of accomplishment and joy - and that makes all it’s flaw worth it.

SUNLIGHT: Start your fiddle off on the right foot by placing it in the best spot in your home. Choose an area that isn’t directly in line with an outside door, drafty window or near an air vent. They also LOVE bright, indirect light. Situate your FLF in the brightest room of your home or close to a window, but not where the light will touch it directly. Once you’ve chosen the perfect place, don’t move it! Fiddles are considered creatures of habit and will thrive once they've found a happy, sunny home.

The drive home and relocation process may put your plant into shock, but you likely won't notice it for a month or two. If leaves start to look brown or sad at the end of month one, check to make sure you haven't overwatered and that the plant is getting adequate sunlight. If neither of those is the culprit, give your FLF love and time to adjust to its new environment.

WATER: The number one way to kill a fiddle leaf fig is to overwater it OR not allow for proper drainage. Water your fig about once a week or at least every 10-12 days. Being native to a rainforest, they’re used to receiving a big soaking with dry spells in between. So when you water at home, it’s best to soak the plant’s soil until dripping, then let it dry out completely between waterings. When you water, turn the plant slightly so that the leaves receive equal sunlight and don’t start to grow toward a light source.

CON: Beyond the other finicky issues with a FLF, it’s most common killers is overwatering. Do the leaves of your FLF resemble a green and brown dalmatian? Chances are, you've overwatered. Inadequate drainage or too little time between waterings allows root rot to set in. When water sits for an extended amount of time, dormant pathogens in the soil flourish, feeding on the plant’s root system. By allowing the soil to dry out in between waterings, pathogens starve and your plant lives to see another day.

Oxalis Triangularis

This is one of my favourite plants in my home. Commonly known as the “Purple Shamrock or False Shamrocks”, these Brazilian native beauties gets their name triangularis due to the triangle shaped leaves. Beyond their beautifully colored leaves, the plant also produces small, trumpet-shaped flowers in spring in colors of pink or white. The blooms last for several weeks. Another feature of the leaves is they open during the daytime hours and close in the evening.

SUNLIGHT: Place your Shamrock in an indoor location that receives bright light. If light conditions are too low, the plant’s growth won’t be as robust and it will have a tendency to become leggy.

WATER: Weekly watering should be light - use about half a cup. Too much water will send the plant back into dormancy. Note that oxalis triangularis occasionally go dormant, making the entire plant feel and look like it died. If this happens, simply stop watering and let the soil thoroughly dry. Set the plant aside and in a few weeks, you will see new life emerge! That is the time to resume watering. Soon, your purple shamrocks will be lush and full again.

CON: Be aware that oxalis triangularis has developed a natural toxicity to protect it from foraging animals. This is a plant that bites back, so take care with pets and small animals.

COOL FACT: Oxalis triangularis are highly “photophilic,” which means that they open and close not just their blooms, but also their leaves in response to light. At night, neatly folded, oxalis triangularis looks like a cluster of little purple butterflies that then open wide to the morning light.

hoya plant

Hoya-carnosa-wax-plants-ryanbenoitphoto-thehorticult-RMB_3626.jpg

This is one of my newest plant friends to join my home. Hoya is often called a “Wax plant” due to its thick dark green, almond-shaped waxy leaves. They commonly grow on long vines and can soon become a lasting member of your family because it lives forever, grows to be enormous, and creates beautiful, porcelain-like fragrant flower clusters.

SUNLIGHT: Hoya plants needs medium to bright indirect light. It dislikes direct sun, artificial light, dark corners.

WATER: Less is more when it comes to watering. Wait until the leaves droop slightly. All Hoyas need to be potted in planters with proper drainage. These plants are very sensitive to too much water, so be sure to use a well draining soil with plenty of pumice and/or perlite.

HELPFUL TIPS: Hoyas don’t mind being a bit root bound. Feel free to keep your plant in the same pot for years, but remember to fertilize throughout spring and summer!

WHEN WILL IT FLOWER? I have yet to see my Hoya bloom but this rare occurrence happens when the plant reaches maturity. Experts say to keep your plant tightly root-bound (in a smaller than normal pot) which will help to accelerate it’s blossoming.