DIY Farmhouse Table + Bench Build For Under $200
Not a carpentry expert? No problem -- If you're looking for a simple build to help transform your eating space at home, then check out this DIY Farmhouse Table Build!
A simple + cheap build for beginners!
HOW-TO:
WOOD:
(2) 2x8 x8 (1) 2x12 x12 (5) 2x6 x8 (1) 1x2 x8
CUTS: CUTS: CUTS: CUTS:
2 @ 73" 5 @ 17" 5 @ 50" 2 @ 16 ½
2 @ 22" 2 @ 28 ½
TOOLS:
Pocket Hole Kit
(2) 24” Clamps
Orbital Sander
Brad Nailer
Drill
Reciprocating Saw
SCREWS, NAILS + BITS:
2 1/2 kreg jig screws
2” Brad Nails
#8 1 ½ Wood Screws
Metal Blade
¾” Spade Bit
Robertson Bit
OTHER MATERIALS:
Wood Glue
60 Grit Sandpaper Discs (5”)
220 Grit Sandpaper Discs - 5”
300 Grit Sandpaper Discs - 5”
Drop Cloths
Wood Conditioner
Stain (color of choosing)
Cotton Rags
Disposable Gloves
Polyurethane Finish
Tapered Brush
White Chalk Paint
Wax Brush
Chalk Paint Finish
ONLINE "BUY + SELL" WEBSITE:
Table Leg Base
2 Chairs
TYPOGRAPHY CANVAS DIY:
White Canvas - 24 x 36
Black Acrylic Paint
White Acrylic Paint
Paint Brush
ASSEMBLE YOUR BENCHES!
**Please keep in mind I've measured my bench and table size to my space. Customize the size of your table top and bench to your space and use the same steps to assemble!
- Start with the largest bench top. You'll need your (2) 73” 2x8 boards
- Use a pencil to mark your pocket holes across one 73" 2x8 board
- Set pocket hole jig to the correct wood depth - for me this was 1 ½”.
* If you aren’t sure how to check your wood depth, just remember that no board is a true 2” - so I’ve linked a chart here so that you can look up your board size too!
-I’ve set my pocket hole jig to 1 ½” (follow the instructions on how to set this up using the guide that comes with your kit) and using my 2 ½ inch pocket hole screws (again, check the chart to ensure you use the right size, I’ve also linked this chart here for you), use wood glue and clamp your two boards together then secure the first 73” board into the second 73” board.
- Take your (2) 22” 2x8 boards and follow the same steps to secure the last two bench pieces together.
- Lets secure some legs. Starting with the long bench, take (3) 17” 2x12 boards
- Mark three points on the board with a pencil where your pocket holes will be placed and then use your drill and pocket hole kit to create them.
- Then decide where you want to place each leg along your bench. I’ve left about 6" of space on each end and picked the middle of those two measurements for the middle piece. I wanted a little lip on the back to account for the baseboards on the wall, so I measured 1” from the back side and traced a line around the legs to remember their placement.
- Add some wood glue and carefully secure the boards to the bench top using your drill and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
- Repeat this step on your 22” bench top using the last two 17” boards.
BAM! You got two benches ready for action! Look how easy that was!
ASSEMBLE TABLE TOP - (5) 2X6 x 8
- Arrange all 5 of your 2x6 boards on your work space and decide the order you want them in. Push together.
- Use a pencil to mark pocket holes across each 2x6 board that is touching another edge. Once finished, you shouldn't need to add any marks on the last piece.
- Use wood glue and clamps to hold two pieces together and secured with pocket hole screws. Continue this process , securing once piece at a time until all 5 boards are attached to each other. Easy Peasy guys!
SAND TABLE TOP + BENCH
- Using an orbital sander, start with a 60-grit sandpaper and smooth out any imperfections on both your table top and bench surfaces.
- Once the imperfections have been worked through, use a 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the boards. At the end of the day, it doesn't need to be perfectly sanded out, we are going for a rustic farmhouse look -- so a rough board isn't bad!
** OPTIONAL** Round out the edges to give the bench and table top a softer look. I always opt for this step on my pieces but it really comes down to personal preference.
WOOD CONDITIONER + STAIN
- Prep your table top and bench for staining by applying wood conditioner first. Wood conditioner is great for evening out the color when working on bare wood. The conditioner works by penetrating and temp sealing the wood to even out the absorption, thereby creating a much more uniform stain! ** Be sure to wear plastic gloves to protect your skin and apply using a cotton rag.
- Using a separate cotton rag, evenly apply the stain color of your choosing across all your pieces. Avoid thick applications and always stain with the grain of your wood.
Depending on the look, you may need to apply one-two more coats of stain. Let your pieces completely dry between coats, as, stain attends to dry darker.
ADD FINISH (VARNISH)
There are many different kinds of finishes (or Varnish) out there and it's important you pick the right one for you. The best and most durable finish is polyurethane (my personal fav).
Polyurethane is available in both water and oil-based options, and comes in many varieties from satin to glossy. For me, it’s the most affordable option and easiest to work with! What I like about the water-based polyurethane is its low odor and low toxicity. It goes on clear without adding any tinting that oil-based versions can create, and it dries much faster!
The type of finish you use will also dictate what kind of brush you use. - Oil-based finish (shellac)- apply with a natural brush or a synthetic one with a tapered end and strong bristles. - Water-based finishes (Polyurethane)- apply with a synthetic brush with a tapered end and strong bristles - Avoid cheap foam brushes, as they tend to wear out quickly and don't provide a smooth coat.
APPLICATION:
- Before applying your finish, make sure you wipe off the surface of your project with a tack cloth or cloth. A tack cloth is a sticky cheese cloth that’s great for picking up any leftover material and dust that still may reside on the piece.
- Stir the finish in a figure-8 pattern. Never shake, as that may produce bubbles that can dry into the surface of your project - you don’t want that.
- Minimize runs and drips, brush from the middle of the board, working toward the edges. Smooth out any of those troublesome bubbles by holding the brush at a 45-degree angle and gently, pulling the brush in long strokes to the entire length of the board.
- After the first coat is completed, let it dry.
- The first coat of finish you apply will be absorbed into the wood, filling most of the pores in the wood's surface. The second coat won't have as much to cling onto. To help the second coat stick to the first, use a 220-grit sandpaper to rough up the hardened first coat. This technique is called “scuff sanding”. Again, using a tack cloth or cloth, wipe off any dust created by sanding.
- Then apply the second coat of varnish in the same manner as the first.
- Repeat the same sanding/cleaning/apply steps for one -two more coats, each time using a higher grit sandpaper from the last. For example, after the 220, I would move onto a 300-grit paper. The idea is to move your way up the grits until you’re happy with the smoothness of the finish applied. Two - three layers usually will do the trick, but you can apply as many layers as your like. The more coats you add, the more durable the project will be!
UNDER TABLE LIP
If your thrifted table legs has a base that you would prefer NOT to see, create a table lip using 1x2 lumber.
- Cut 1x2 boards on the chop saw into the following sizes: 2 @ 16 ½ , 2 @ 28 ½
- Prep, stain + finish all four pieces using the same steps as above
THRIFTED LEGS PREPARATION
- My thrifted leg top had two bolts that were sticking out, which would stop be from lying my future table top board flush. To mend this, I had to bore a hole so that the bolt would sit flush. I used a ¾” spade bit and drilled down far enough that the washer and bolt would lie flush. Then I needed a shorter bolt, so I used a reciprocating saw and a metal blade and sawed it off.
- Prep the legs for painting. Sand the pre-existing layer of paint off the legs using a 220-grit sandpaper. It doesn't need to be completely removed, just enough that the entire surface has been roughed up to accept the new paint.
- Cover surface with paint. I used white chalk paint and a wax brush.
-Apply 2-3 coats.
- Once dry, apply a chalk paint finish to the surface.
SECURE TOGETHER
- Once the finish is dry on your table, secure your (4) 1x2 pieces using a brad nailer and 2" brad nails to the underbelly of your table top.
- Center the table legs and secure with 1 ½” wood screws.
DIY TYPOGRAPHY ART
I wanted to make my space feel unique, so I created my own nerdy typography art.
- To create your own, source a large white canvas from your local craft store.
- Using a pencil or chalk, write the message you want to convey carefully onto the canvas.
*TIP: I always find it easier to write this on a piece of paper first so that you determine the best placement of letters.
- Once happy with placement, use black acrylic paint and pain over the sketched outline.
- Use white acrylic paint to add some texture to the back, behind the letters.
- Hang and enjoy!
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